ARTICLE/NEWS

Everything about NAIL LACQUER 2010-02-06

A Vibrant Reputation

As one of the nail care industry’s renowned color houses, ORLY seasonally introduces new color ensembles and updates the permanent collection of over 120 lacquer shades that are free of DBP*, Toluene and Formaldehyde. By diligently analyzing fashion trends and precisely custom-blending hues, ORLY has established a dynamic palette composed of subtle sheers, vivid crèmes, dazzling shimmers, smooth glitters and hot neons. Plus, each ORLY shade features the award-winning GRIPPER CAPTM. The ergonomic GRIPPER CAPTM ensures ease of opening and optimal performance for flawless manicures and pedicures.

*DBP, or dibutyl phthalate, is a plasticizing ingredient that is banned for use in cosmetic products in the European Union. DBP is a potential developmental and reproductive toxin that may cause a broad range of birth defects. ORLY products do not contain DBP.

 

ORLY’s Permanent Nail Lacquer Shades

To See ORLY’s complete selection of lacquer shades, please visit www.beautyforsale.eu

 

What causes different dry times between my clients?

"Dry time" is the amount of time needed for the solvents of the film to fully evaporate from the nail bed. Dry times will vary depending on multiple layers of coating, load of pigmentation, and heavy application, all of which can take longer to completely set.

A typical nail lacquer with a quick drying topcoat, such as ORLY’s In A Snap, will take anywhere from 3-10 minutes for the lacquer to completely dry. Note, it’s important to remember, just because the lacquer may be dry to touch does not necessarily mean the lacquer is completely dry. Additionally, the strength of the nail bed can also determine dry time. The stronger and thicker the nail bed, the faster the dry time. This is why pedicures may dry more quickly and last longer then a manicure.

Why do some lacquer shades bubble on the nail?

A problem that can occur with dry time is a term called “Bubbling.” Bubbling, are tiny bubbles that can be seen in your manicure as a result of solvents evaporating too quickly while the lacquer is trying to dry. Varying temperatures, thickness of polish and solids within the nail lacquer, can result in bubbling. At ORLY, we thoroughly test our lacquer to prevent bubbling caused by inferior formulas. 

 

What makes up nail lacquer formula?

Nail lacquer, in general, consists of 6 main types of ingredients: Pigments, Resins, Solvents, Plasticizers, Dispersants, and UV Stabilizers.

 

Pigments (colors) are the essence of lacquer. Most lacquer shades require a combination of different pigments, mixed in the right proportions, to make the desired color. Before adding pigments to the lacquer, they must be ground down with mills to very fine powders. “Frost” and “shimmer” lacquer are created by adding sparkling, reflective particles, such as mica. The size of the particles helps determine the way the lacquer sparkles.

 

Resin is the tough material that holds the lacquer together. Resins are a type of "polymer", which means, they are composed of giant molecules that were made by linking smaller molecules into long chains and networks. ORLY uses Nitrocellulose resin to make the lacquer strong and gives

it a shiny surface.

 

Solvent is the part of the lacquer that evaporates, and is responsible for the strong odor. The solvent must be compatible with the resin, so that the resin can be spread on the nail. After the lacquer has been applied, the solvent must evaporate evenly, so that a smooth, hard coat will be left behind. (It's a lot like the way paint works.) Solvents that evaporate too slowly or too fast can ruin the lacquer coat or cause bubbling of the lacquer. If the top layer dries too quickly, it captures the solvent beneath as it is still evaporating. As you can see, the right solvent combination must be chosen.

 

Plasticizers are additives that keep the Resin flexible after it is dry. Think of plasticizers as sort of a molecular "lubricant" in between the resin (polymer) chains that allows them to move around a bit more without breaking. This makes the resin tougher and less vulnerable to chipping.

 

Dispersants are additives that help the pigments mix with the resin and solvent. Some pigments have a tendency to settle out of the solvent/resin mixture. Dispersants partially prevent this. However, even with the best dispersants, some settling out of the pigments may eventually happen. This is why it's important to shake (or better yet, roll) the lacquer bottle before using.

 

UV Stabilizers are additives which help keep the lacquer from changing color when it is exposed to too much UV light from the sun. Some UV stabilizers are the same chemicals used in sun-protection lotions. 

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